The Art of Japanese Knife Sharpening: Bring Your Knife Back to Razor Sharpness with Wet Stones

A dull knife can be annoying, and even dangerous, in the kitchen. Instead of struggling with it or throwing it away, discover the art of Japanese wet stone, manual sharpening! This traditional method ensures unparalleled sharpness and allows your favorite Satake knives to cut like new again. While it might seem daunting at first, with a little practice, anyone can master this satisfying and effective technique!

Why Manual Sharpening and Why Wet Stones?

• Unparalleled Sharpness: The fine, abrasive particles of wet stones precisely remove material, creating a razor-sharp, durable edge.
• Gentler: Unlike other sharpening methods, such as electric sharpeners, wet stones don't generate as much heat, which can damage the blade's structure.
• Control: You have complete control over the sharpening angle and pressure, allowing you to precisely adjust the edge to the knife type and your needs. This is especially important for quality knives, such as Satake blades, which require precise sharpening.
• Experience: Many find a meditative experience in sharpening.

Let's dive in step-by-step!

Required Tools: Your Knife Sharpening "Workshop"

Before you begin, gather the following:

• Wet Stones (Whetstones):
  • Coarse (e.g., #200-#400): For severely dull, damaged-edged knives or for significant edge reshaping.
  • Medium (e.g., #800-#1500): This is the most commonly used stone, for restoring the sharpness of a dull knife.
  • Fine (e.g., #3000-#8000): For polishing the edge and achieving razor sharpness.
  • Very Fine (e.g., #10000+): For an exceptionally smooth, mirror-polished edge (optional).
  • Tip: For beginners, a #1000/#3000 combination stone is an excellent choice for most kitchen knives, including Satake models.
• Flattening Stone (Nagura stone or flattening stone, optional): The surface of wet stones can become uneven over time; use this stone to keep it flat.
• Whetstone Holder (optional, but recommended): Securely holds the stone in place during sharpening.
• Water: You'll need plenty of water; don't skimp!
• Wiping Cloth: For wiping the knife and your hands.
• Felt-tip pen or edge marker: For checking the sharpening angle.

Preparation: The First Steps

• Soaking the Stones: Wet stones must be thoroughly soaked in water before sharpening. Coarser stones for 10-15 minutes, finer ones for 5-10 minutes, but this depends on the stone – soak until no more bubbles appear. It's crucial to keep the stone continuously wet during sharpening.
• Preparing the Workspace: Place the stone in its holder or on a damp cloth to prevent slipping. Ensure you have ample space and water available.
• Determining the Sharpening Angle: This is the most critical step. Most Japanese knives, including Satake knives, have an edge angle of 15-17 degrees. Western knives typically use a 20-degree angle.
  • Tip: Use a felt-tip pen on the edge and draw the knife across the stone. If the pen mark comes off evenly across the entire edge, you're holding it at the correct angle.

Step-by-Step Sharpening Process

1. Starting with the Coarse Stone (#200-#400, if necessary, otherwise use medium):

• Position: Hold the knife with both hands. One hand grips the handle, the other (your dominant hand) rests on the blade's flat surface, above the edge you want to sharpen, close to the tip.
• Angle: Set the appropriate sharpening angle (e.g., 12-15 degrees for Satake knives). Imagine that only a small part of the edge is touching the stone.
• Movement: Pull or push the knife gently, with even pressure, moving from the tip of the blade towards the handle. Repeat this a few times.
• Gradually: Sharpen the blade from front to back, working in sections. Focus on ensuring every part of the edge makes contact with the stone.
• Burr Check: A burr will form on the blade during sharpening. You can check for this by carefully running your finger along the edge (gently, to avoid cutting yourself!). If you feel a burr along the entire edge, then flip the knife over.

2. Sharpening the Other Side (with the Coarse Stone):

• Flip the knife over and repeat the previous steps on the other side of the blade!

3. Moving to the Medium Stone (#800-#1500):

• Soaking and Rinsing: Don't forget to soak the medium stone, and thoroughly rinse off any steel slurry formed on the coarse stone.
• Repeat: Repeat the sharpening process (steps 1 and 2) on the medium stone. The goal now is to remove the marks from the coarse stone and create a finer burr. Apply less pressure.
• For Satake Knives: The steels used by Satake, such as AUS-8A or MVS10Cob, respond well to this stone and will already feel noticeably sharper here.

4. Moving to the Fine Stone (#3000-#8000):

• Soaking and Rinsing: Again, soak and rinse the fine stone.
• Polishing: On this stone, the goal is to polish the edge and achieve maximum sharpness. Apply very light pressure, almost just the weight of the knife. Move the knife in long, even strokes!
• Burr Removal: At this stage, the burr will be barely noticeable, or not at all. The key is to "work off" any remaining burr with increasingly finer, alternating strokes on both sides.

Finishing and Checking the Edge

• Burr Removal (Finishing): On the fine stone, perform a few extremely light, alternating strokes on both sides. Imagine trying to cut off the thickness of a piece of paper from the edge. Some people finish sharpening on a leather strop, which further polishes and removes microscopic burrs.
• Checking the Edge:
  • Paper Test: Take a sheet of paper (e.g., newspaper) and try to slice it while holding it vertically. A truly sharp knife will cut the paper easily, without snagging.
  • Tomato/Onion Test: Try slicing a soft tomato or onion without needing to apply pressure beforehand. If the knife cuts through the skin effortlessly, congratulations!
  • Visual Inspection: The polished edge should be smooth and mirror-like, without any burr.
• Cleaning and Storage: Thoroughly clean the knife and the stones. Allow wet stones to dry completely before storing them to prevent cracking.

Common Mistakes and Tips for Satake Knives

• Incorrect Angle: This is the most common mistake. Be patient and practice holding the angle. In the case of a Satake knife, the factory angle is usually very precise; try to replicate it.
• Too Much Pressure: Too much pressure can scratch the blade and result in an uneven edge. The pressure should be even, and reduce it on finer stones.
• Dry Stone: Always keep the stone wet; the slurry on the surface helps with the abrasion.
• Not Using the Full Surface: The stone's surface will become "hollowed" over time if you always sharpen on the same spot. Use the entire surface, and if necessary, flatten the stone!

Satake knives made from MVS10Cob Damascus steel are particularly responsive to careful manual sharpening. With proper care, these blades will serve you excellently for many years and provide an impressive cutting experience every time. Satake kitchen knives made from AUS-8A steel are also extremely easy to sharpen on wet stones, making them ideal for beginners.

Mastering Japanese wet stone sharpening is a rewarding skill that not only saves you money but also creates a deeper connection with your knives. Give it time, be patient, and soon you'll be sharpening your Satake knives like a pro!